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  There is something reassuringly robust about The Punch Bowl Inn.
  Not just in the old-fashioned bar, where the Wainwright Gold
  is well kept and a huge leather sofa sits before
  a blazing wood burner; or in the dining room, solid and comfortable,
  with its old beams, well-trodden wooden floors and tables unadorned with cloths; it's in the menu, too, mainly British with a Gallic burr, that makes full use
  of the magnificent local Lake District larder.
  
  
  
  
  
  Stornoway black pudding with crispy egg and bubble and squeak:
  ‘pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis', is Tom's verdict
  
  We're here with Peter Gott, that great Cumbrian hero,
  and the man behind Sillfield Farm, who has invited me up to
  cook at the Westmorland County Show; also chef Phil Vickery,
  who certainty knows his alliums; and the force of nature that is Lorraine Stanton, something of
  a legend around these parts. But first dinner, and a sublime
  twice-baked Mrs Kirkham's cheese soufflé, the texture as light as a sigh, the flavour profoundly, lasciviously rich.
  
  Mrs Kirkham's, now made by her son Graham, is one of the world's great
  cheeses, and this is a soufflé of quiet majesty. A mushroom soup is equally splendid,
  managing to be both light and gutsy, while Stornoway black pudding with
  bubble and squeak and a deep-fried egg is pure Cumbrian comfort by way of Lewis.
  
  
  
  There's a fundamental generosity here, matched by assured
  technical precision. Duck à l'orange sees a plump breast cooked rare, the skin crisp,
  the sauce just the right side of bitter. It comes with a
  fat potato fondant and cabbage spiked with shards of smoked bacon. I eat rump of lamb, four vast just-pink slices, drenched in the stickiest, most
  gloriously intense of gravies; by its side, a tiny shepherd's pie, one bite of pure ovine brilliance.
  
  
  Puddings are every bit as fine: a lemon tart, beautifully sharp, with damson sorbet (this part
  of the Lake District is famed for its damsons); along with a banana soufflé, this time the classic version but ethereal, served with
  vanilla ice cream and a pot of sticky-toffee sauce
  to pour deep into its molten centre. This
  is good old-fashioned food, immaculately done, in the sort of pub
  designed for lingering. It's getting late now, and
  we've an early start. But first, another bottle of wine. Dinners like this are too rare to be rushed.
  
  
  About £45 per head. The Punch Bowl Inn, Crosthwaite, Cumbria; the-punchbowl.co.uk
  
  ★★★★✩