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  An invitation to lunch at Caviar Kaspia was, once upon a time, an offer
  you simply didn't refuse. Providing, of course, that the bill
  was on someone else. Because caviar, smeared on blinis
  or piled high on baked potatoes, sure didn't come cheap.
  There may have been other things on the menu, but no one paid them
  much heed. This was all about lashings of the black stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  Caviar Kaspia's signature baked potato and caviar: ‘there are few
  better dishes on earth…only the price, at just under
  £150, is ridiculous'
  
  Caviar Kaspia popped her final tin about two decades
  back. And that site, hidden down a smart Mayfair mews,
  was taken over by Gavin Rankin (who used to be the boss), and transformed into the brilliant Bellamy's.
  It prospers to this day. Kaspia, on the other hand, went quiet.
  Until last year, when she reopened as a members' club in another Mayfair backstreet.
  But a £2,000 a year membership fee proved hard to swallow, meaning
  the doors were opened to the great unwashed.
  
  Which is how we find ourselves sitting in a rather handsome - albeit near empty
  - dining room, lusciously lavish, under the stern gaze of a stern painting of a very stern man.
  The soft, crepuscular gloom is broken up by the glare of table lamps,
  indecorously bright, while a loud soundtrack of indolent, indeterminate beats throbs in the background.
  The whole place is scented with gilded ennui.
  
  Our fellow diners are two young South Korean women of pale, luminescent beauty, clad in diaphanous
  couture. They don't speak, rather communicate entirely via
  camera phone. Pose, click, check, filter, post. Immaculate waiters hover in the shadows.
  
  
  We sip ice-cold vodka, and eat a £77 caviar and smoked-salmon Kaspia croque
  monsieur that tastes far better than it ought to. Next door, a large
  table fills with a glut of the noisily, glossily
  confident.
  
  We're looked after by a wonderful French lady of such effervescent charm and charisma that had
  she burst into an impromptu performance of ‘Willkommen', we would have barely blinked.
  Baked potatoes, skin as crisp as parchment, insides whipped savagely hard with butter and
  sour cream, are a study in tuber art. A cool jet-black splodge of
  oscietra caviar, gently saline, raises them to the sublime.
  Only the price, at just under £150 each, is ridiculous.
  
  But there are few better dishes on earth.
  I'd eat this every day if I could. But I can't. Obviously.
  That's the problem with caviar. One taste is never enough.
  
  
  About £200 per head. Caviar Kaspia, 1a Chesterfield Street, London W1; caviarkaspialondon.com
  
  ★★★★✩
  
   
  
  
  
  My favourite luxury dishes
  Tom's pick of the best places to splash the culinary cash in LondonTom's pick of the best places to splash the
  culinary cash in London
  
  The Ritz
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Beef wellington sliced and sauced at the table (£150) and crêpes suzette
  flambéed with aplomb (£62): Arts de la Table is edible theatre at
  its most delectable.
  
  theritzlondon.com
  
  Otto's
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Come to this classic French restaurant for the canard or homard à la
  presse (£150-£220 per person); stay for beef tartare (£42), foie
  gras (£22) and poulet de bresse rôti (£190, two courses).
  
  
  ottos-restaurant.com
  
  Sushi Kanesaka
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Piscine perfection comes at an eye-watering £420 per person, sans booze.
  But this 13-seat sushi bar shows omakase dining at its very finest.
  
  
  dorchestercollection.com
  
  Min Jiang
  
  
  
  
  
  
  The dim sum is some of the best in town. But don't miss
  the wood-fired Beijing duck (£98) - crisp skin first, then two servings of the meat.
  Superb.
  
  minjiang.co.uk